Tàrbena: A Spanish Holiday in the Mountains

Mountains and Migration

Tàrbena’s history is as layered as the terraced hillsides that surround it.

Originally settled by the Moors who named it after the Arabic “tarbana” (meaning border district), the village grew as an agricultural settlement protected by its strategic mountain location.

After the Christian reconquest of Spain, Tàrbena faced a pivotal moment in its history following the expulsion of Moorish inhabitants in 1609.

King Felipe III’s decree left the village nearly deserted until a remarkable repopulation effort brought 17 families from Mallorca, mostly from the town of Santa Margalida, to settle the abandoned homes and farmland.

This Mallorcan heritage remains evident today in the local dialect, cuisine, and traditions—a fascinating cultural island in the mountains of Alicante.

And to honour the original Mallorcan families a plaque in the village car park proudly declares that ‘they are our roots and our blood’.

The Mallorcan Connection

Evidence of Tàrbena’s Moorish past can still be found in the ruins of its castle and the labyrinthine street layout of the old quarter.

Typical Tàrbena street

The 18th-century Church of Santa Bárbara presides over the village, built on the foundations of a former mosque, symbolising the cultural transitions that have shaped this resilient community.

Such resilience was in evidence during a turbulent Spanish Civil War, when Tàrbena’s remote location made it a strategic hideout for Republican supporters fleeing Franco’s forces.

Today, local guides can point out caves in the surrounding mountains where villagers sought temporary refuge.

A Slice of Spain

Tàrbena serves as an ideal base for exploring the natural splendour of inland Costa Blanca while enjoying authentic cultural experiences in and around the village.

El Pueblo

Although very Valencian, the village has a surprisingly high number of non-Spanish residents and homeowners, from the UK, France, Ireland, Germany, The Netherlands, USA and South America.

It adds rather than detracts from village life, integrating an international texture into a singularly Spanish landscape.

So although you won’t naturally find villagers speaking English, compared with the coastal resorts; you are sure to hear someone sitting at a table in the plaza chatting in a familiar tone.

Morning Coffee

Streetlife in Tàrbena

One of the simple joys of a holiday in rural Spain, high in the mountains, is that particular stillness when meandering through a village that seems to be lost in time.

That feeling of being abroad, away from home; a destination worthy of the journey.

You will find that in the streets of Tàrbena.

A quiet corner

And there is always a surprise, a place or a moment that makes you pause and reflect. It might be historic or cultural, maybe a bit of both.

But what comes through more than anything, and is typical of Spain more generally, is a reserved sort of pride – proud of their village and their collective past.

The Voice of Tàrbena mural

Keep your eyes peeled as you traverse the intricate web of calles as there is always something to make you smile and maybe think of how a village like Tàrbena survived and then thrived through such tumultuous times.

Tàrbena, your name in lights!

Fame & Fortune in Tàrbena

The stepped terraces surrounding the village were etched into the hillsides by the Moors, allowing the villagers to earn a good living from the land across the centuries.

Terraced Hillside & View to Benidorm

Almonds, olives, raisins and nispero fruit lead the way; the almond processing plant in the village feels a little like a scene from a documentary set in the 1950s!

The Mallorcan connection also bestowed upon the village an inheritance altogether different: artisan sausage and black pudding making!

And to this day the village is renowned for its various homemade meats, especially sobrasada con miel, an authentic pork and paprika type sausage with honey; its origins traced all the way back to the Balearic island.

La Casa de la Sobrasada

There is evidence to suggest the famous military commander, El Cid, passed this way back in 1090 on his way to capture Valencia from the Moors.

More recently, the writer Giles Tremlett in 2006 published ‘Ghosts of Spain‘, which includes a memorable mention for Tàrbena. While Giles continues to write about Spain and all things Spanish for The Guardian he also happens to be married to a local Tàrbena woman.

And right up to the present day, the chap who originally designed the Jorvik Viking Centre in York as well as 1980’s TV classic, Dusty Bin, resides in the village; painting and crafting walking sticks out of his stylish Third Leg Studio!

John Sunderland at work in his studio

Food & Drink in Tàrbena

The advantage of a holiday in a Spanish village is that after a while you begin to feel like … a local.

You might enjoy your morning cortado and tostada con tomate at the same bar, and receive a friendly smile and a daily ¿Cómo estás?

There are a handful of establishments in and around Tàrbena where you might choose to be a regular, as well as providing an ideal opportunity to speak a little Spanish!

Bar la Plaça

In Spain, there’s always a bar in the plaza.

And it’s usually called Bar Plaza – unless you’re in the Valencian and Catalan speaking regions where Plaça is the word.

Bar la Plaça

A typically austere village bar, dark and cool inside to offer sanctuary during a hot summer, while tables and parasols are set up in the plaza.

Mornings can be quite busy but it’s rare not to be able to get a table outside.

Unless it is one of the many fiestas that take place during the year and the whole village seems to be in party mode!

Bar la Plaça during Fiesta

Dolç i Salat

The most recent addition to the hospitality fraternity in the village, Dolç i Salat, is a rather cool café with a warm welcome.

Located in Plaza Mayor opposite Bar la Plaça, the name comes from the Catalan for Sweet & Savoury.

And they do both really, really well!

Dolç i Salat

There is nothing quite like sitting at a table in the sun, overlooked by a towering church and the peal of bells intermittingly sounding throughout the village.

In front of you a montadito and a small plate of jamón y queso accompanied by una copa de vino tinto.

Quintessentially Spanish you might say. And we would agree!

Can Pinet

A holiday in rural Spain can never be complete without a hearty Menú del día.

And in Tàrbena we know just the place…

Restaurante Can Pinet

Unpretentious and traditional, Can Pinet oozes character. Once inside, you know that this place looked and felt the same twenty or thirty years ago.

And that’s a good thing.

An open kitchen allows you to see the magic happen. And if you select the slow-cooked lamb shoulder, you’re bound to fall under the Can Pinet spell.

Family-run and homely, dining here is such an exquisitely Spanish experience – even when staying down on the coast we’ll drive up into the mountains to enjoy a hike followed by lunch at Can Pinet.

C’as Pelut

Just outside of Tàrbena you will find C’as Pelut.

It’s a time capsule of a place; more like someone’s summer retreat than a restaurant.

It could be the 1980s and why not, C’as Pelut first opened its doors in 1983 and now 3rd generation, Felip and Amparo, oversee proceedings just as their grandparents did decades ago.

Paella Lunch at C’as Pelut

A shared pan of paella on the terrace, overlooking the village; it might not be everyone’s idea of heaven, but for us this is what a holiday in the Spanish mountains is all about.

Homemade food in a place far from home that feels just like being home. Yes, heaven is a place called C’as Pelut!

Sa Canterella

The first time we had a holiday in Tàrbena was also the first time we stepped into Sa Canterella.

Now run by Paco and his wife Lola, but back then by Paco’s father, Sa Canterella is one of those environments in el campo that helps define what makes a good holiday.

Sa Canterella

The lusciously verdant setting is surrounded by palm trees with memorable views back across the valley to the village.

And the swimming pool is a blessing during the height of summer while the menu continues to delight us each time we return.

Calamares y Cerveza

As the sun heats up and morning turns into afternoon, there’s only one more addition to make this the best of days: Mojito!

Mojito Time

With freshly picked mint fed into the glass that first sip is so incredibly aromatic; and with the sound of music humming gently in the background and a brilliantly blue sky above, it’s easy to understand why we keep on coming back to this village in the mountains.

Can Ran

It is more than likely that you’ll be staying in self-catering accommodation when on holiday in Tàrbena.

But even though you may be in a hotel or B&B, make sure to pop down early to Ca Ran, the village baker.

Fresh bread and croissants from the oven, still warm in the paper they are wrapped in.

And the best Pan de Chocolate this side of France; although the Spanish refer to these sublime pieces of pastry as Napolitano de Chocolate.

Can Ran Bakers

Places to Stay in Tàrbena

There are several options for your holiday in Tàrbena, depending on a preference to be either in the depths of the countryside or the heart of the village itself.

Can Elisa

We’ve always found that the Dutch, not quite sure why, seem to do everything well.

Quality is a watchword.

And at Can Elisa, Linda and Jasper, originally from Amersfoort in The Netherlands, live up to the billing!

Jasper & Linda

Through hard work, passion and an obvious affection for Spain and the Tàrbena Valley in particular, this couple have created a small piece of paradise nestled in the mountains between Tàrbena and neighbouring village, Bolulla.

You can opt for one of their two fabulous apartments – Almendra and Oliva – or the luxury Safari Tent with its own Queen-size bed, pellet stove and Netflix!

Whatever your accommodation decision, one thing is for sure: the views are out of this world.

Room with a View

Can Perles

Back in the centre of Tàrbena you will find Can Perles, a casa rural that just might be one of the finest we have come across in a village setting.

Although an attractive enough facade, it in no way prepares you for the absolute gorgeousness of the interior.

Can Perles

Erik and Esperanza, the couple who have brought this wonderful property to life, deserve a lot of credit as it is these upgrades and refurbishments that help bring tourists to the village.

Erik is also renowned as a local walking and hiking guide, therefore, it is no surprise that many outdoor-lovers love to stay at Can Perles.

Cool interior, Can Perles

But if your idea of a rural holiday in a Spanish village is not to exert yourself too much, then a sweet little courtyard offers the right amount of privacy and warm sunshine.

Courtyard, Can Perles

You can find more accommodation to stay, whether in or outside of the village, in our Tàrbena Guide, all offering a genuinely warm welcome.

El Campo

Tàrbena is the ideal base for exploring the natural splendour of inland Marina Baixa while enjoying the cultural experiences the village itself has to offer.

Fiestas

Like all Spanish villages there seems to be more fiestas than there are days!

While the major one (and the noisiest) is always a village’s patron saint celebrations – Fiestas Patronales En Honor a Santa Bárbara – which takes place from the first weekend in August, there are several celebratory events that pop up during the course of a year.

A favourite of ours is the Annual Food Festival (Fira Gastronòmica) which has a fantastic atmosphere, traditional market stalls, local food and events including the famous Catalan human tower exhibition, Castells.

Annual Food Festival

Out & About

The road between the Tàrbena and Jalón valleys is a majestic drive; towering mountains, deep gorges and spectacular scenery at every turn.

It is, therefore, easy to appreciate why this is one of the premier cycle routes on the Costa Blanca.

For us though, we prefer travelling on four wheels with a stop-off to soak up the views of the valley below.

Viewing Point – Coll de Rates

And then an enjoyable lunch on the terrace of Coll de Rates restaurant.

Coll de Rates Restaurant

Tàrbena is certainly spoiled for memorable car journeys.

The road to Castell de Castells must rank highly as one of the best in this part of Spain.

And there are even more superb hiking trails, all offering routes for various levels of experience and expertise.

And for those who enjoy settling for a less arduous expedition (count us in), there are smaller circular walks around the village, again with incredible views not only of the surrounding mountain ridges and valleys but right down to the coast.

Mediterranean View

You might also decide to head up to As Pou, just outside of the village along the Castell de Castells road.

It’s a charming picnic area with tables and a zip wire. And the most unforgettable views.

As Pou Picnic Area

And let us not forget little Bolulla, the smaller village on the way to Tàrbena when travelling from the direction of Benidorm.

It was one of the first Marina Baixa places we fell in love with. During a hot summer we would frequent the hidden away fonts to bathe in ice cold lagoons, encircled by bulrushes and wonderful rock formations.

Countryside Oasis

And for lunch, a walk back into the village for a refreshing drink in Bar L’Era, a place we regularly return; lovely welcome and glorious homemade food.

Bar L’Era, Bolulla

Sunset and Moonshine

As the day begins to end in a village like Tàrbena, you can head into the plaza, especially during the high season, to share in the bonhomie of the bars.

Or you could just seek refuge on your terrace to watch the sun gently go down, darkness descend and … watch your neighbours get into party mode!

Party Time – Tàrbena style

Tàrbena Time

There will be many people who miss out on a holiday in Tàrbena, assuming that wherever the giant resort of Benidorm is located there must be very little room for real Spain to flourish.

This would be unfortunate for all lovers of Spain; its culture, history, people, places and local gastronomy.

For here in Marina Baixa, and for us always in Tàrbena, you are welcomed as guests and will leave as friends. You will taste local Valencian dishes that you have never heard of and enjoy dishes you have heard of -paella- with newfound wonder!

It’s time for a holiday in Tàrbena.

But if you do get itchy feet, well … Benidorm’s just down the road!